谷川岳・一ノ倉沢烏帽子岩奥壁南稜(2012/06/07)

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探検部の大先輩、U氏に谷川岳の一ノ倉沢南陵に連れて行ってもらいました。

・活動場所:谷川岳・一ノ倉沢烏帽子沢奥壁南稜
・日時:2012年6月7日(木)
・参加者:U野、佐野(5年、執筆者)

半年ぶりぐらいの山、しかも入門ルートだが初めての本チャンなのでドキドキでした。
前日に東京から車で谷川岳周辺まで移動。朝6:00過ぎに一ノ倉沢出合を出発。 平日にも関わらず、僕らのほかに3パーティーほどが登りに来ているようです。
天気もよく、出合いから眺める一ノ倉沢の景色は壮観です。早朝から三脚を立てて写真を撮っている人が何人もいました。

(一ノ倉沢の雪渓。右手のテールリッジから取り付きへと登る)

(一ノ倉沢の雪渓)


テールリッジに乗り移って、取り付き目指してどんどん登っていく。が、途中のトラバースなどは怖くて及び腰になってしまい、U氏を随分と待たせてしまった。高度感に圧倒されてしまいました。すいません。

(テールリッジ)

(一番恐怖を感じたトラバース。登りでは残置ロープを使ってしまいました)

1時間半強で取り付きに到着。この日は、南陵、中央稜と中央カンテを登っているパーティーがありました。僕らは、南陵の取り付きで先行パーティーが登攀していくのを待ちます。

(別のルートを登る他パーティー)

(南陵を先行して登る他パーティー)

難しい箇所はほとんどなく、しかもすべてセカンドだったので、楽しく登れました。ただ、まだまだマルチピッチでのロープ捌きが遅く、U氏にいろいろと教えていただきました。上から眺める一ノ倉沢の景色も素晴らしいです。

( 第一ピッチをセカンドで登る)

(南陵から一ノ倉沢を見下ろす)

最終ピッチの垂壁は水が滲み出していて滑りやすく、今回の核心でした。U氏はリードでスイスイと登っていきましたが、僕は恐る恐る、ひやりはっとしながら登りました。

(最終ピッチの核心)

(最終ピッチの垂壁を上から)

最終ピッチを登り終えたところで少し休憩し、下降開始。隣のルンゼから懸垂でどんどん高度を下げていきます。ロープが引っかかったりすることもなく、スムーズに降りれました。帰りのテールリッジは、クライミングシューズのまま降りたところ、スイスイ下ることができました。
雪渓に降り立ち、14:00頃に一ノ倉沢出合いの駐車場に戻ると、なんとそこにはジャージ姿の中学生の群れが!埼玉から遠足で谷川岳に来たそうです。質問攻めにあい、クライミングをしてきたと言うと、男子中学生たちから羨望の眼差しを受けました。
その後、温泉に寄ってから帰京。19:00前には東京に着き、非常にスムーズで快適な山行でした。Uさん、今回はありがとうございました。

記入:佐野洋輔

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