谷川連峰・万太郎谷本谷遡行(2012/09/15-16)

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活動名:谷川連峰・万太郎谷本谷遡行
活動期間:2012年9月15日~16日
メンバー:CL佐野(5年)、SL保坂(2年)、松田(1年)、田中(1年)

(一ノ滝25m上より)

一年生を2名を連れて、上越屈指の人気の谷を遡行してきた。佐野は二度目の万太郎谷本谷だったので緊張感もなく、欲を言えばもう少し難しい谷に行きたかったが、天気も良く楽しめた。

・万太郎谷本谷の概要:谷川岳(1977m)の肩の小屋へと突き上げる谷。前半部は、快適なナメ歩きや瀞の突破、後半部では一ノ滝25m・ニノ滝10m・三ノ滝二段35mの登攀が楽しめる。よく磨かれた白い岩と青い水が美しく、上越屈指の人気の谷。佐野は2009年に遡行済み。標高差1250m、水平距離5800m、遡行グレード2級、RCC IIグレードIV級。

・活動記録:[1日目(9/15)] 土樽駅(08:42) – 入渓(10:00) – 井戸小屋沢出合(11:20) – 一ノ滝上(13:45) – ニノ滝上の幕営地(15:00) – 就寝(20:00)
[2日目(9/16)]起床(4:30) – 出発(5:00) – 三ノ滝上(7:50) – 肩の小屋(9:40) – 土合駅(12:10)]

入渓直後は釣り師が多く、遡行には少し気を使った。 こんなメジャーな谷でも釣れるんだろうか。前半は怖いところもなく、気温も高かったので、水線通しに進むと純粋に楽しい。今回は、水量が少なめか。一ノ滝、ニノ滝、三ノ滝はどれも直登したが、簡単で気持ち良い登攀だった。ただし、ニノ滝は荷上げに手間取り、さらに松田がザックを滝の上から落とすというアクシデントがあった。三ノ滝は上段のトラバース箇所がぬめっていて佐野は怖かったが、保坂が率先してリードで登ってくれたので助かった。
途中で慶應大学WV部のパーティーに会ったが、とても感じの良い方々だった。ニノ滝上でビバーク。焚火のあと就寝。夜中に結構雨が降っていたが、早朝には止んで2日目も快晴。詰めも景色がよく、岩も乾いていて快適。稜線での休憩もつかの間、12時台の電車に乗るためにハイスピードで下山した。電車には間に合ったが、代償として筋肉痛が次の山行にまで残って後悔した。

(小滝を突っ張りで越える)
(オキドキョウノトロ付近のゴルジュ)

 (一ノ滝をリードする佐野)

(三ノ滝の上段20mを登る)

(詰めの急登からの景色)

・反省:一年生2名は体力があり、ロープワークも多少経験していたので、 遡行スピードが予想より速くてよかった。一~三ノ滝以外に危ない箇所はないので、初心者を連れて行きやすい谷だと思う。反省すべきはニノ滝での荷揚げミス。20分ぐらい時間をロスしてしまった。今後はザックが引っかかりやすい箇所では、それを考慮にいれた荷揚げをする。

記入:佐野

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