2014/05/24~25大春木沢・芦川濁沢遡行

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山梨県南アルプス市付近の大春木沢と濁沢というところに行ってきた。

メンバーは CL佐藤学5年 SL保坂朋秀4年 記録:松田浩平3年 細貝ゆう2年 小野かんじ1年 住村1年

24日。前夜泊発。最近大崩落があったらしく、出合いのかなり手前の駐車スペースに車をとめる。

道路も崩落
道路も崩落

大春木沢は情報が少なく、撤退の可能性も考えつつ入渓。この日のメンバーは、佐藤、保坂、松田、住村

大春木沢入渓後、最初の滝の直登を試みるも、岩がもろくあきらめる。次に近くのルンゼからの高巻きをこころみる。これが失敗。ルンゼ内もやっぱり脆く、どこまで行ってもまともなプロテクションがとれない。ハーケンを刺してもカムをつっこんでも簡単に岩が砕けてしまう。生きた心地がしない。なんとかルンゼの途中で支点を作る。声が通りにくく、全員登ってきてしまった。ここで敗退を決意。

ルンゼ
ルンゼ

そこから近くの木まで支点をとりつつトラバースして、なだらかな斜面を下り、適当な木で懸垂下降して、駐車場まで戻った。安全には気を付けているつもりだったが、こんな恐怖を感じるようなことになるとは思わなかった。反省。

特に住村には、はじめての本格的な沢で恐怖を感じさせてしまって、申し訳なく思った。ただ全員怪我なく下山できてよかった。

下山途中、こぶし大の岩が稜線上からばらばらと沢に落ちているのが見えた。もうこの沢には行きたくない。行ってもいいけど、しばらくは行きたくない。身に余る沢でした。沢登りはしばらく続けていきたいので、もう少し頑丈な岩質の沢に行きたい。

25日。濁沢

前日の沢にくらべればかなり気が楽だった。住村と保坂がこの日から離脱。新しく小野、細貝が参加。

前日の衝撃が強かったので、濁沢については特筆することはない。入渓からすぐに見える3段60m滝は快適な登攀でこえる。

3段60mの滝
3段60mの滝

2条20m滝は左岸側から登る。出だしのリスにナイフブレードががっちりきまったので、アブミを使ってみた。楽しい。あとはシャワークライム。

2条20mの滝
2条20mの滝
シャワークライム
シャワークライム

下山は読図をしながら、尾根上を集落に向かって降りた。かなり迷ったが、なんとか下山できてよかった。

全体の反省としては、ルートファインディングの粗さと意思疎通ができていないということがあったと思う。次回から改善する。

あとは、もっと沢慣れした部員を増やしたい。毎回活動に来てくれる部員がほしい。ラオスの未踏峰を登るメンバーも早く決めたい。

佐藤学

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