「沢登り入門」〜奥多摩梅沢谷遡行〜

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1、期間

2017年 6月 18日

 

2、目的

探検をするにあたって沢登りは一つの武器になるものだ。しかし、危険度が高くしっかりとした技術や経験が必要となる。今回は入門ということで、易しいといわれる沢でその楽しさと基礎技術を体感しようと思っている。

 

3、活動概要

奥多摩の海沢をアメリカキャンプ村から入渓し不動の滝の懸垂下降まで遡行する。

 

4、活動地域

奥多摩梅沢谷

4、メンバー

CL 山内(2年)、SL 大倉(2年)、記録 三角(2年)

森口(1年)、細貝(5年)、部外参加者 佐藤(探検部OB)

 

3 活動結果

本来は高巻きする予定のネジレの滝を登攀しようとした結果、気温と水温が低かったことと技術の不足から、予想していた以上に時間がかかり、森口(1年)が低体温症を起こしそこで活動を中止した。事故の報告は別にまとめた。

 


以下事故報告書より抜粋(一部編集)

・前提状況

森口は探検部1年で事故当時は入部間もなかった。本活動は本人にとっても初めての沢登りだった。

沢は寒く、暗く、水は冷たかったため、ネジレノ滝に着いた時点で隊員全員は少し震えていた。ネジレノ滝二段を学さんが確保しながら登り、トップロープ( 安全に確保された状態で、あらかじめ上からロープがおろされた形態。より安全に登ることができる。 )に掛け換え、山内が最初に挑戦。足場がない状況ででアッセンダー(登高器)が上手く使えず30分程水の中でもがき、あぶみを使う事で登りきる。2番目三角はあぶみを使い登りきる。

・森口の様子

3番目森口はネジレノ滝以前に少し疲れた様子を見せていた。登るのに苦戦する中でデイジーチェーンとあぶみが水中で絡まり動かせない状態になる。他のパーティーの方に手伝ってもらって森口を持ち上げようとしたが、森口は思考停止状態になっており、体が動かせなかったので陸に引き上げた。この時森口は顔面蒼白で唇は紫になり、チアノーゼの特徴が見られた。

処置

乾いた服に着替え、サバイバルシート(保温性がある)をかぶり火に当たり応急処置とした。

温かい飲み物や食べ物を食べて、1時間程したら顔色が回復したので出発した。

・問題

高巻く予定の滝を無理に登ろうとしたところ、アッセンダーが上手く使えず苦戦し、今回の事態になった。アッセンダーの使い方は事前講習で確認したが、実際には足場の無いツルツルのスラブに足を突っ張りながら左手でロープにぶら下がり、右手でアッセンダーを少しづつ引き上げるという、初心者には難しい作業だった。

・対策

 元は高巻く予定であった事もあり、山内がアッセンダーで苦戦した様子を知る後続は高巻く判断をするべきだった。後続は、30分も苦戦していた山内を見て慄いてはいたがなんと登攀出来た様子を見て、大変そうだけどなんとか出来るんだ、と思ってしまった事が原因のひとつにあると思う。寒い、大変、時間が押してる、という当時の状況を踏まえれば高巻く判断も出来たはず。

 部員全員参加の救助講習が春と秋に行われていたため、二年生以上の上級生は心得を持ち合わせていた。そのため低体温症に対する適切な処置が行われ、二次災害を引き起こすことなく下級生を回復に導き、隊員全員が無事に帰ることができた。

 しかし、事故を起こさないことが何より大切である。このことは今回の事故を機に、部員全員が肝に命じなければならない。また、当部の活動の安全性を引き継いでゆくために、今後主体となっていく一年生も恒例活動である救助講習を真剣に受講する必要がある。

 今後の対策として、活動事前講習ではよりリアルな状況に即した実戦的な内容の練習を行うようにする。今回あぶみが非常に便利であることがわかったので、あぶみの作り方も事前に習得すべき技術に加えるよう対策を講じる。

 また今回の事故に際しては、たまたま通りかかったパーティーに、動けない森口を滝から助け出すのを手伝っていただく、食糧を分けてもらうなど大変お世話になった。十分に感謝と反省をせねばならない。


 

5 隊員の感想・反省

CL 山内

何と言っても低体温症になる隊員が出てしまったことが今回の反省だ。(事故については上記参照。以下省略。)沢登り自体は自然を直に感じられて楽しいものだったが、今回はいかんせん水が冷たくて、時間が経つにつれ辛くなってきてしまった。次回はもっと暑い時に行いたい。個人的には予想以上に時間がかかり、大変寒かったが諦めず滝に登れたことが良かった。CLをやってる時は妙にメンタルが強くなる気がする。


 

当活動にあたり、たまたま遭遇したにもかかわらず、隊員の救出・手助けをしてくださったパーティーの皆様には、部員一同感謝申し上げます。

編集 下川(2年、広報係代理)

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