万太郎谷遡行(2009 08/15-16)

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日程:2009815日、16(14日駅寝)

メンバー:以下六人

CL光永(OB)、SL大平(元探検部)、谷川(OB)、佐野、石黒、山下(元探検部)

地域:谷川岳山頂付近へと、北西から南東に向かう大きな沢

   水平距離約6キロ、標高差1200

経過

4日 谷川岳付近の土樽駅に向かうため、各自終電に乗る。終電が20:56着であるため新宿を五時発ぐらいが終電となりだるい。

    駅に着くと少し歩き、草に囲まれた広場で就寝。シュラカバだけでは寒かった。

15日 5:15起床  準備に手間取る。

    6:10活動開始  沢の取り付きまで車も通れる道を歩く

    7:00入渓  インディージョーンズに出てくるようなゴージャスな堰堤を越えて入渓。澄んだ水と雪に磨かれた綺麗なナメや釜を通過。河原歩き。はしゃいで何度も突き落とし合い、ザックを投げ合う。

    オキドウキョのトロと言われるゴルジュ地帯の通過にロープを使用。6人のため時間がかかり他パーティに遭遇、抜かれる。

    11:30一ノ滝  20メートル滝の右側を登る。リード光永。時間はかかったが特に問題なく通過。

    14:40二ノ滝  10メートル滝右寄り水流の中を登攀。リード谷川。難しそうに見えて、登ると案外簡単で気持ちの良い滝だった。しかし、事前打ち合わせが曖昧であったこと、滝の上と下の中継地にいた大平の判断ミスなどにより、ロープが絡まり非常に時間がかかった。通過に三時間を費やす。

    18:00幕営地  急いで薪を集め焚火をし、ベーコンを食す。酒を持ってきてないやつが居てリーダー怒る。夕飯(食担:佐野)のカレー春雨ご飯を食べる。うまかった。米も家の炊飯器よりもおいしかった。

    22:30就寝  虫に刺されまくる。

 

16日 6:30起床  朝飯(食担:石黒)のラーメンを食べる。

    8:00活動開始 

    9:00三ノ滝  10メートル+20メートル滝。1つずつ区切って登る。リード光永。特に問題は無かったが通過に3時間かかる。

    12:00三ノ滝上から尾根へ  滝通過後は巨石群や、やらしいナメを通過し、800メートルを一気につめて谷川岳肩の小屋へ。

    15:00肩の小屋  谷川・大平は近くの山頂までピークハント。

    15:30下山開始  西黒尾根を下山。石黒はバテバテ。終電に間に合うか心配になる。

    18:10駅着  終電約10分前に駅着。各自家を目指す。

まとめ

今回の遡行はパーティの実力から言って、ギリギリの沢だったように思う。経験者、未経験者問わず各々が力を使い切ったように思う。だからこそ、それぞれ有意義な経験をして記憶に残る沢になったのではないか。しょうがないことだが滝は1人ずつ登るため、時間がかかった。そのため二ノ滝で経験者側にシステムの混乱が起きたのは致命的だった。

ともあれ、沢自体とても綺麗でいろんな要素を含んでいて楽しかった。天気もよく、ビバークも楽しめてよかったと思う。


デジカメ画像090429 413
 

文責:大平

    

 

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