大菩薩嶺沢登り2(小室川谷)(2011/05/03-04)

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5月3日、前日の大黒茂谷に続き、小室川谷を遡行した。
メンバーは、大平と佐野。
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  小室川谷下部を行く

朝8時、前日の遡行で予想以上に疲労したため、のんびりと起きて朝飯の準備をする。
今回はガスヘッド・ガス缶を持ってきていないため、調理の度に焚火をする。
前日釣った魚と棒ラーメンを食べて出発。
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  小滝と釜

まず2段の3m、4m滝に取りつく。
昨日と違い「ああ中級の沢だな」と最初から意識させられた。
しばらく進むと、S字峡に到達。
滝の前の水釜は底が深く、透明な青色で美しい。
切り立った岸壁に囲まれたゴルジュの中に、勢いのある2つの滝があった。
1つ目は小さく巻き、懸垂下降。しばらくへつって、2つ目の滝も小さく巻いた。
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  S字峡の内部

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  懸垂下降の様子

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  彼はこの数秒後、勢いよく釜に落ちる。

直後の松尾沢出合あたりから小雨が降り始める。2人とも気づかないふりをして先を急ぐ。
小室ノ淵を右岸から巻いて、軽快に通過し、中ノ沢出合に到着。この時には、もはや本降りに。
さらに20分行ったところの高台でビバークを決める。
 8:00 起床
10:15 出発
12:00 S字峡突破
15:30 小室ノ淵通過

ビバークに決めた個所は、岩壁が少しハング気味になっている場所の下で、
幅50㎝×長さ2mほどの雨の当らない箇所があった。
濡れて当然の沢登りをしていたとはいえ、本降りでずぶぬれになった体を、急いで焚火で暖める。
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  よーく見ると地面に濡れていない箇所が。

一方、水を汲みに沢に降りてみると、なんと10匹以上の魚たちが水面に来て口を動かしていた。
およそ水深2~3m幅1.5mの淵に、所狭しと魚が泳いでいる。
考えてみれば、夕暮れ前で、雨の後ほど釣りに適した時はない。

結局、おとなしく身体を乾かせばいいものを、2人で釣りに走り、岩魚・山女5匹と引き換えに、
再び降りだした雨で身体をずぶぬれにした。

夜、本当の核心は、この夜だった。
2人でツエルトにくるまって寝たのだが、私(大平)が夜中に目を覚ますと、隣で佐野がガクガクと身体を震わせていた。
「マジ寒いっす」彼はシュラフカバーのみだったので本当に寒そうだった。
私も岩壁から滴り落ちる水滴がシュラフカバーの顔の部分から入り込み、長い夜となった。

4日、寒過ぎて目は覚めていたが、5時半に改めて起床。
濡れた薪で懸命に火をおこす。

再び濡れた沢用行動着に身を包み行動開始。
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  立派な10m滝

立派な10m滝を小さく巻くと、この沢のハイライトである4段40mナメ滝に到達。
2段目で2人とも滑ってこけたので、慎重に突破。
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  この数秒後にこける

10m、8m滝を越え、蛇抜沢との出合に到達。
これ以後は倒木ばかりの沢筋を、しゃがんだり跨いだりして懸命に進む。
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  階段状の滝

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  倒木をくぐるのが一番疲れる

最後のツメはとても長く感じた。
稜線に出た時は「やっと終わった」と感動し、2人とも倒れこんだ。
そしてその前を大菩薩嶺へと向かうハイカーが何人も通り過ぎていった。
今年こそ海外の沢を目指してやっていきたい。
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  このてっぺんが大菩薩嶺。たぶん。行かずに帰る。

 5:30 起床
 8:00 出発
11:00 蛇抜沢出合
13:30 稜線上
15:00 上日川峠からのバスで甲斐大和駅へ

文責 大平

佐野icon(佐野のコメント)沢自体はスケールが大きめで、存分に楽しめた。しかし、ビバーク時にシュラフカバーの中まで濡れて、寒くてほとんど眠ることができなかった。そういう意味で、あまり思い出したくない沢だ。

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