セドノ沢左俣遡行(2011/06/22)

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東京から近くの、神奈川県表丹沢山塊へ沢登りに出かけた。
今回の標的は屈指のメジャールート、水無川水系では目立たない「セドノ沢左俣」だ。
昨年11月にはその右俣も遡行済みである。(http://blog.livedoor.jp/e302/archives/1124737.html)
P6220096

 入渓点近く

メンバーは、大平、佐野と麻布大学探検部4年の鏡内君だ。
鏡内くんは探検部のみでは物足りず、2年の頃から社会人山岳会に入り、アルバイトは某登山用品ショップという本格派だ。我々はまず彼の装備の多さに驚いた(先週末のオーブさんも凄かったが、オーブ様は服装が…なので、なぜかあまりギアの充実さを感じさせない)

アプローチは、2週間前にセドノ右俣を遡行したという鏡内くんに任せて、スムーズに入渓する。

大滝までこれと言って特筆する箇所はなかったが、所々ムーブを考えさせられる小滝がある。
P6220105

 水をかぶって進むところも多々

左俣大滝は右俣と比べようがないほど小さく、容易な滝だった。遡行図記載の13mもあるように見えない。
一応ロープ使用、大平が空身でリード、鏡内2番目、佐野は大平の荷物を持って登る。
ただ良い終了点が見つからず、リングボルト1つを支点にしてしまったのは良くなかったか…。

むしろ後半部にあったエアリア上の「白竜の滝」の方が面白かった。
ロープ使用、リード鏡内。
 P6220108

 白竜の滝をリード
P6220112

 落ち口から。狭い割に開放的な沢だった。 
なおこの周辺で書策新道なる登山道が横切るらしく、利用して稜線に出ようと思ったが、見つからず結局最後まで詰めた。適度にガレてドロドロで、スタンダードなつめだった。

その後、塔ノ岳を登頂する。ちゃんと来るのは初めてだったので、大平と佐野は眺めにほんの少し感動。快晴で富士山が見える。

その後少々大倉尾根を下降し小草平ノ沢を下降する。短いのでわざわざ登りに来たくはないが、下降にはちょうど良かった。クライムダウンしてみると「こっちのルートからも降りれたんだな」などと発見があって面白い。
下降のルート取りはまだまだである。
P6220115

 ここともう一か所だけ懸垂で降りる。

パーティの実力から言って少し物足りなかったが、快晴の中、遡下降の両方ができて良い懇親山行となったと思う。
7:30頃 渋沢駅集合 8:00 大倉バス停着 9:30頃 入渓点付近 10:00 入渓 11:30 白竜の滝 13:00 塔ノ岳 14時過ぎ 小草平ノ沢下降開始 16:35 バス停

記入:大平

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