海外遡行同人総会&イワンヤ沢(2011/06/25-26)

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OB馬上さんのススメで、25、26日に、日本特有の登山スタイル「沢登り」を海外で行う猛者たちの集まりである海外遡行同人の総会に参加してきました。
まず「総会」なのに東京や大阪と言った街で行わず、南信州の松川青年の家で行うところがさすが。たまたま農大探検部の倉品くんも行くとのことだったので、一緒に高速バスで松川に。


25日は午後から報告会が行われた。3時からと言われていたので(授業とは違って)敬意を払って10分前に着席するが始まる様子はない。40分遅れほどで始まった茂木さんのスピーチには「この同人にはリーダーがいない、全て自己責任で開かれている」という言葉になるほどと思う。本質を求める人たちには時間的制約など些細なことだ。

報告会は度肝を抜かれるものばかり。
木下さんの報告は「40キロの遡行+40キロの下山」というとてつもないスケールの台湾大崙渓の沢登り。メンバーも多彩で日本の大学生、現地の大学山岳部OB、ファイントラックの方などが参加している。大規模なゴルジュの写真を延々と見せられるが、ずっとドキドキして見入ってしまった。
さらに『オレは沢やだ!』の成瀬さん、今回は大滝や困難なゴルジュの話はなかったが、タスマニアの沢でカモノハシと遭遇した話がとても面白かった。
そしてゲスト参加のクライマー佐藤さんはパキスタンの山で、雪崩にあって東京タワー2つ分滑落したが無傷だった仲間の話や、半分立ったままでのビバーク、ガス缶を落とした(つまり雪山では水が作れない)が登り続けたなど信じられないような話が連続した。

その後の懇親会では、世界中を遡行している茂木さんとも話すことができた。懇親会は3時過ぎまで続いたが、今回は「寝る場所と飲む場所が異なっていたため節度ある飲み」だったようだ。例年はアルコールゴルジュが明け方まで続き、懇親沢登りは中止となることが多いそうだ。

翌朝は戸台川支流イワンヤ沢に連れて行ってもらう。他のメンバーは台湾遡行に行った人達だ。
P6260124

両岸が切っ立った崖となっている。
二俣に分かれるまでは、今まで行ったことのなかった石灰岩質の沢であったことから、トンネル状の滝など純粋に渓相を楽しんだが、左俣に入った瞬間にそんな呑気なことは言ってられない。
チームは左俣、右俣と二手に分かれ、私は簡単と言われる左俣へ。しかし水量が多いせいか、全ての滝でネイリングをし、アブミを出して突破した。私は軽装だったので寒さに耐えるのに精一杯で、ユマールで上がらせてもらう。リードは全てファイントラックの相川さんが行った。上下自社製品を着こんでの突破は私にとって強力なアピールとなった。
P6260137

リードする相川さん
P6260135

ゴルジュ上部。60mぐらい絶壁隙間に、暖かそうな光が見える。

結局左俣の3つの滝(水平距離およそ50m)を越えるのに約3時間かかった。こういったゴルジュには未だ挑戦で来ていなかったので、貴重な経験となった。帰りは右俣を下降した。
P6260139

ゴルジュの中にあった洞口。F5の上にあり、少し高い位置にあり、フリーでは行けなかったので中は確認できず。今度誰か行ったらついでに確認してみては?

記入:大平

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