ホラノ貝ゴルジュ+東のナメ沢遡行(2011/07/23-24)

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7月23日、24日、奥秩父東沢の本流下部(ホラノ貝ゴルジュ)と東のナメ沢に行ってきました。
メンバーは、大平、佐野、佐藤
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釜ノ沢に行く時に、前を通り過ぎただけだった「ホラノ貝」と「東のナメ」に挑戦。鶏冠谷出合付近に幕営用品をデポし、両ルートともピストンでアタック。
両方とも手ごたえのあるルートだった。

23日東沢本流下部
塩山駅をバス8:10発、西沢渓谷に9:20頃到着。観光客に混じって林道歩き。
10:30 鶏冠谷出合から入渓、水温の低さにビビる。前夜の最低気温は塩山で16度ほどだったみたい。
すぐに倒木が倒れ掛かっている5m滝が出現。踏み跡から巻けば30秒で巻けるが、手前右壁のクラックにカム+アブミで越える。その後ホラノ貝ゴルジュまで泳がないといけない箇所が2、3あり、相当寒い。
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丸太橋の上で決闘
12:30 ホラノ貝ゴルジュ入口
以前下見した時よりは水位が50cmほど低い。昨年10月に遊びで挑んだ時は、5m滝まで辿りつけなかった。けれど水温がマシになってきたのも手伝い、難なく入口部分を突破(とはいっても、空身+ライジャケで佐野が先行)
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ホラノ貝入口、防水カメラがなかったので写真はここまで
核心のアブミ掛け替えのトラバースは、最初から「核心」と思ってそれ相応の装備を持っていたため特に苦戦せず。佐野リード突破14:10、やってみたかったので大平も無駄にトラバース突破15:15、その間に佐藤は滝流心左をユマール。時間はかかったが、佐野は残置ムシで越える。大平は時間切れで残置使用、やはりまだ適切なリスとハーケンを探すのに時間がかかる…
その後は楽勝と思っていたが、案外苦戦。荷物を背負ったままでは水勢に勝てず、ライジェケとロープを随所で使用。佐野が活躍。
16:30過ぎ、なんとかゴルジュを突破。以後、スライダー+流され+飛び込みで一瞬にしてホラノ貝入口に(おそらく10分ほどで、下降はあっけなかった。)
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鶏冠谷出合付近で幕営

24日東のナメ沢
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ナメ沢下部から、2人が立っている辺りからロープを出す
5:00 起床、前夜なかなか寒かったので、焚火をつけてだらだらする。今思うとこれがよくなかった。
6:30 鶏冠谷出合を出発、山道と河原歩きの連続
8:00 東のナメ沢出合に到着、8:15 クライミングシューズに履き替え、300mナメ滝を登攀開始。
ザックを2つにまとめ、トップは空身で登り、後ろはユマール。
以前少しだけ沢タビで歩いたことがあったが、クライミングシューズだとびっくりするほど簡単に登れる。
最初の140mぐらいは緩い傾斜のスラブを快適に登る。少し壁が立った所からロープ使用。
最初100mほどを大平がリード、水流の左側、3ピッチ。下部はやたらと残置ハーケンがあるが、どれも古い。打ち足そうにもなかなか良いリスが見つからずタイオフを連発、たまにカムが決まる。
後半部60mを佐野がリード。途中から残置も少なくなり、どうやら通常ルートを逸れたようだ。ブッシュ帯に入ることなく、ずっと水流左を登る。
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ナメ滝上部から
11:00 大滝を突破。この時点で終バスぎりぎりだろうなぁと感じる。以後さらに大きなナメ滝を2つ越えて右からのナメ沢との出合をすぎると樹林帯に入り、猛烈なツメが始まる。
12:30 最初に大平がばてる。自分でも不思議なぐらい身体に力が入らず「休憩しよう」を連発。
13:30 ようやく稜線上に詰めることができる。この頃には全員バテバテ。大休憩を2度ほどとる。
14:30 不明瞭な道を辿り、ようやく第1岩峰に。
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鶏冠山山頂
17:00 ようやく鶏冠谷出合に到着、すでに終バスを過ぎてしまった…。
18:30 全員の財布の中身をチェックし、価格交渉の末、なんとかタクシーに乗車、塩山へ。

雑感
ホラノ貝アブミトラバースは残置ハーケンをがんがん使えば楽勝。水量の多寡で泳ぎが難しそう。
東のナメも残置をどんどん使用しトポ通り行けばすぐに越えられる。大滝で達成感を感じてしまったが、むしろその後のツメと下山が長く、その分の体力を残しておかないといけない。その後のタクシー乗車の決断、電車の遅延や乗り換え含め、個人的には今までの山行でも最上級に疲れました。

記入:大平

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